naniwa tei: a love story

Morning, DDS-readers! As promised, let me tell you a little about a charming Japanese hole-in-the-wall, Naniwa Tei.

There are lots of reasons I love living in Sydney. Weather, definitely. Campos coffee, without a doubt. The Bay walk, Centennial Park, the Harbour Bridge. And of course, the restaurants. As you can no doubt tell from reading this blog, I am pretty big on restaurants. But as much as I love the five star, silver spoon, "can I get you any more of anything?" service at places like Tetsuya's and Quay, there is a certain inimitable charm about the less exciting restaurants about town, too. To wit: Naniwa Tei.

My friend D introduced me to this restaurant about two years ago. The floorboards are unpolished. The tables are bare. The walls are covered in posters advertising Engrish-sounding entrees. A radio constantly plays Mix 106.5 FM. It is hardly ever full, and when it is, the customers are a mix of finance suits and budget-conscious students. The one thing they all have in common is their Japanese heritage. It's a sign that bodes well for our tummies.

A little while after D introuced me, I, in turn, introduced my then-new boyfriend, Caliban, to the delights of soft shell crab, tuna sashimi and cuttlefish kimchi. In the two years since, I think we've eaten there at least 25 times. At least.

Being the creatures of habit we are, we hardly ever stray from our own little menu. Soft shell crab for two, large tuna sashimi, cuttlefish kimchi, mixed tempura, and plenty of Asahi. The soft shell crab is served in small bowls, with a bed of lettuce and a sweet dipping sauce. The crab itself melts on your tongue, and as you bite into it, the moist, flavoursome meat bursts. It's pretty amazing - especially for $12. The tuna sashimi is similarly impressive - ruby red, without a trace of visible fat. It's served just below room temperature, which is perfect: not so cold that you might mistake it for watermelon (the texture definitely changes as it gets colder) and obviously, not too warm. It's Caliban's favourite dish, and I think he's told everyone he's ever met all about it. If you've met him, he's probably told you more than I ever could about the delights of this dish. Listen to his version.

The cuttlefish kimchi is a very cool discovery. I'm not much for regular kimchi. Cabbage has never been high on my list of must-eat foods, and while the spicy sauce is a winner, I've never really seen the point of smothering it on the vastly inferior cabbage. But cuttlefish kimchi - well, that works. I can definitely see the point of that. Thin ribbons of cuttlefish (molluscs similar to squid - and according to Wikipedia, among the most intelligent invertebrates) are soaked in spicy, thick kimchi sauce, for our eating pleasure. I'm absolutely addicted to these little threads of joy.

The mixed tempura is fairly standard Japanese fare, to be honest. It's not remarkable, but it definitely wins a place in our regular menu. And let's be honest: the Asahis wouldn't really be doing their job without some grease to absorb.

We've shared our love of Naniwa Tei with friends and family, and on such occasions, we do experiment with the menu. Takoyaki smothered in Japanese mayonnaise, kingfish and salmon sashimi, light-as-a-feather gyoza, beef tataki topped with egg yolk (yum!), udon noodle soups, and some of the most lethal hot sake I've ever tasted.

The thing I love most about Naniwa Tei is that it provided such a perfect backdrop for our romance. We genuinely think of it as our place - and that's how I'll always refer to it.

I'm curious to know - do you and your partner have a regular restaurant? Tell me!

Naniwa Tei
Bulletin Place, Circular Quay